The Process Nobody Tells You About

You have decided to get an EV charger installed at home. You know roughly what charger you want, you have checked the grant situation, and you are ready to go. But what actually happens? How long does it take? What do you need to prepare? And what should you expect on installation day?

Most guides focus on choosing a charger — very few explain the installation process itself. This guide walks you through every step, from the initial survey to switching on the charger for the first time, so you know exactly what to expect.

Step 1: The Pre-Installation Survey

Every proper EV charger installation starts with a survey. This is not optional and it is not a sales call — it is a technical assessment of your property to make sure the installation is safe, compliant, and practical.

What the electrician checks

Main fuse rating — the fuse in the meter cupboard that limits your total electricity supply. The electrician will check whether it is 60A, 80A, or 100A and assess whether the supply can handle a 7kW charger alongside your normal household demand. If the supply is tight, load management may be needed.

Consumer unit inspection — the electrician checks your consumer unit for spare ways (empty positions for additional circuit breakers), the type of RCD protection fitted, the overall condition and age of the unit, and whether it meets current standards (BS 7671). If the consumer unit is full, outdated, or has inadequate RCD protection, it will need upgrading before the charger can be installed.

Earthing arrangement — the property’s earthing type (TN-S, TN-C-S, or TT) affects the installation method and any additional protective measures needed. The electrician tests the earth fault loop impedance to confirm that fault protection will operate correctly.

Cable route planning — this is one of the most important parts of the survey. The electrician works out the best route for the cable from the consumer unit to the proposed charger location. The route needs to be as short and direct as practical (to minimise voltage drop), avoid structural elements and other services (gas, water, drainage), be protected where it runs externally (in trunking or conduit) or underground (in ducting at minimum 500mm depth), and be neat and unobtrusive where possible.

Charger location — the proposed mounting position needs to be at a height that allows comfortable cable connection to the car, close enough to the parking space that the cable reaches the car’s charge port, not in a position where the car might reverse into it, accessible for maintenance, and compliant with any planning restrictions.

Wi-Fi signal — smart chargers need an internet connection. The electrician checks the Wi-Fi signal strength at the proposed charger location. If the signal is weak, you may need a Wi-Fi extender or a charger with 4G connectivity.

How long does the survey take?

A typical pre-installation survey takes 30 to 45 minutes. The electrician will walk through the house from the meter and consumer unit to the proposed charger location, checking everything along the way. They will take measurements, note the cable route, and photograph key elements for reference during installation.

After the survey

The electrician will provide a quotation based on the survey findings. This includes the charger unit, all cabling and accessories, any additional work needed (consumer unit upgrade, earthing improvements, etc.), labour, and the OZEV grant deduction if applicable. If additional work is needed, the electrician will explain why and what it involves. A good installer will not surprise you with unexpected costs on installation day — everything should be identified and quoted at the survey stage.

Step 2: Ordering Equipment

Once you have accepted the quotation, the installer orders the charger and any other materials needed. Popular charger models are usually in stock, but some models or specific configurations may have a lead time of a few days to a couple of weeks. If a consumer unit upgrade is needed, the replacement unit will also be ordered.

If the installer is applying for the OZEV grant, the application is submitted at this stage. The grant approval is usually quick (often within a few days), and the installer will not proceed until it is confirmed.

Step 3: Installation Day

This is the main event. Here is what happens, step by step.

Power isolation

The electrician will need to turn off the electricity supply to install the new circuit in the consumer unit. This means a period without power — typically 30 minutes to an hour for the consumer unit work. If a consumer unit upgrade is needed, the power will be off for longer (2 to 3 hours in some cases).

Plan accordingly: if you work from home, save your work and charge your laptop. If you have a fish tank, the fish will be fine for a few hours without the filter and heater. If you have a medical device that requires power, discuss this with the installer in advance so they can plan the work to minimise disruption.

Consumer unit work

The electrician installs a new MCB (miniature circuit breaker) for the EV charger circuit. This is a dedicated 32A Type C MCB in a dedicated way on the consumer unit. If the charger does not have built-in Type A RCD protection, an RCBO (combined MCB and RCD) or a separate Type A RCD will be installed to protect the circuit. This is a BS 7671 requirement for EV charging circuits.

If the consumer unit needs upgrading (because it is full, outdated, or has inadequate RCD protection), this is done first. A consumer unit upgrade typically takes 3 to 4 hours and involves replacing the entire unit, reconnecting all existing circuits to the new board, and testing every circuit after reconnection.

Cable installation

The cable is run from the consumer unit to the charger location. This is usually the most time-consuming part of the installation and varies significantly depending on the cable route.

Internal cable run — if the cable runs through the house (along walls, through the loft, under floors, or through the cellar), the electrician will clip it neatly and protect it where it passes through walls or ceilings. In some cases, the cable can be hidden behind skirting boards or in existing cable routes.

External cable run — if the cable runs along the outside of the house, it is installed in protective conduit or trunking to protect it from weather and physical damage. The conduit is fixed to the wall with clips and sealed where it enters the property.

Underground cable run — if the cable needs to cross a garden, patio, or driveway, it is buried in ducting at a minimum depth of 500mm (600mm under driveways). This involves digging a trench, laying ducting, pulling the cable through, and backfilling. The electrician will usually mark the cable route with warning tape buried above the ducting. Groundwork can add significant time — a simple trench across a small garden might take an hour or two, while a longer run under a paved driveway can take most of a day.

The cable itself is typically 6mm² or 10mm² twin and earth or SWA (steel wire armoured) cable, depending on the cable run length and whether it is buried or surface-mounted. The electrician will calculate the correct cable size based on the circuit length, voltage drop, and fault current requirements.

Charger mounting

The charger unit is mounted on the wall using the manufacturer’s mounting bracket. This involves drilling into the wall (masonry fixings for brick or stone walls), attaching the bracket, and hanging the charger unit. The cable is connected inside the charger unit according to the manufacturer’s wiring diagram.

CT clamp installation

If the charger uses load management (and it should — see my guide on supply capacity), a CT clamp is fitted around the main incoming supply cable at the consumer unit. This small sensor monitors the total current flowing into the house and sends the data to the charger so it can adjust its output accordingly.

If solar divert is being set up (see my guide on solar panels and EV charging), a second CT clamp is fitted on the solar generation cable.

Step 4: Testing and Commissioning

This is the part that separates a professional installation from a bodge job.

Electrical testing

After installation, the electrician carries out a full battery of tests on the new circuit. These include insulation resistance testing (checking that the cable insulation is intact and there are no short circuits), earth fault loop impedance (confirming that the earthing is adequate for the protective devices to operate correctly), RCD trip testing (verifying that the RCD disconnects within the required time at the required fault current), polarity check (confirming that live, neutral, and earth are correctly connected), and functional testing (switching the charger on and checking it operates correctly).

Charger setup

The electrician connects the charger to your Wi-Fi network and helps you set up the manufacturer’s app on your phone. They will walk you through the basic functions, including starting and stopping a charge, setting a charging schedule, adjusting the maximum charge rate, and setting up load management or solar divert if applicable.

Test charge

If your EV is available, the electrician will plug it in and run a test charge to confirm everything works correctly — the charger communicates with the car, the charging cable locks, and power flows to the battery. This is the moment of truth, and it is satisfying to see the charging light come on for the first time.

Step 5: Paperwork and Certification

A compliant EV charger installation generates several important documents.

Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) — this is the formal certificate confirming that the new circuit has been designed, installed, and tested in accordance with BS 7671. It includes the test results, the circuit details, and the installer’s registration details. Keep this document safe — you may need it for insurance claims, property sales, or future electrical work.

Part P Building Regulations notification — EV charger installation is notifiable work under Part P. Your installer (if registered with NAPIT, NICEIC, or another competent person scheme) self-certifies the work and notifies your local authority’s Building Control department. You will receive a Building Regulations Compliance Certificate, usually within a few weeks.

OZEV grant documentation — if the OZEV grant was applied, the installer provides evidence of the installation to OZEV, and the grant is processed.

Manufacturer’s warranty registration — the installer registers the charger with the manufacturer to activate the warranty. Keep a record of the warranty period and what it covers.

How Long Does the Whole Process Take?

Survey — 30 to 45 minutes, usually within a few days of your enquiry.

Quotation and grant application — 1 to 5 days.

Equipment ordering — 1 to 10 days depending on stock.

Installation — a straightforward installation (short cable run, modern consumer unit) takes 3 to 4 hours. An installation with a consumer unit upgrade, long cable run, or groundwork can take a full day. Complex installations (underground runs across driveways, three-phase connections) may take 1 to 2 days.

From initial enquiry to charging your car, the typical timeline is 2 to 4 weeks.

What You Need to Prepare

To make installation day run smoothly, clear access to the consumer unit (move furniture or stored items away from the meter cupboard), clear the route from the consumer unit to the charger location (inside and outside), clear the area around the proposed charger mounting position, ensure the Wi-Fi password is available, make sure there is somewhere to park your car away from the installation area during the work, and let the electrician know about any special requirements (working from home, medical equipment, pets, etc.).

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does an EV charger installation take?

A straightforward installation takes 3 to 4 hours. If a consumer unit upgrade, long cable run, or groundwork is needed, it can take a full day. Complex installations may take 1 to 2 days. The pre-installation survey takes 30 to 45 minutes on a separate visit.

Will the electricity be off during installation?

Yes, for a period while the electrician works on the consumer unit. For a simple circuit addition, expect 30 minutes to an hour without power. For a full consumer unit upgrade, expect 2 to 3 hours. The electrician will let you know in advance.

Do I need to be at home during installation?

Yes. The electrician needs access to the consumer unit (usually inside the house) and may need to discuss cable routing options during the installation. You will also need to be available for the charger setup and test charge at the end.

What certificate do I get after installation?

You should receive an Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) with full test results, a Building Regulations Compliance Certificate (from Building Control, usually arriving a few weeks later), and the charger manufacturer’s warranty registration. Keep all of these documents safe.

Can the charger be installed in a garage?

Yes. Garages are a popular location for EV chargers, especially if the car is parked inside or immediately outside the garage. The installation requirements are the same — a dedicated circuit from the consumer unit with appropriate protection. If the garage has its own sub-board, the charger circuit can often be connected there instead of running a cable back to the main consumer unit.

If you are ready to book an EV charger installation at your Rotherham or South Yorkshire home, call me on 07817 171954 or get in touch here. I am Mat from MP Electrical, a NAPIT-registered electrician. I will carry out a thorough survey, explain everything clearly, and install your charger to the highest standard.